Surprises in Oaxaca

 

 

You know how great travel writers check out a place before they go?

They buy the books, check the web, look at the typical weather conditions, the long-range forecast for the period they’ll be in the new place, the must-see places to visit, the ruins, the churches, the cultural events, in short, they research the whole enchilada?

I’m not one of those people.

I prefer the Surprise Approach.

As in, I’m surprised to discover that Oaxaca is finishing up its rainy season. This means, that though there are some days that are scorching, there are also torrential downpours that flood through with walls of rain.

 

Long ago, Kevin and I had driven through this city and I knew that we’d found it beautiful and interesting. But for me, I think that any time more than a decade has gone between visits, it’s like visiting again for the very first time.  Kind of like becoming a Travel-Virgin all over again.

Though, as it turns out, our collective memory was correct.

This city is fabulous. Churches glow in that ethereal light that comes just as the sun is being obscured by those fat dark clouds. Coffee shops and university students are everywhere, giving the whole place an energetic buzz. There are more indigenous people here then almost anywhere else in Mexico, and the resultant mix of peoples adds to the colourful beauty of the place.

There is art everywhere, galleries, frescoes and paintings tattooed on walls and bodies. Trees flame in raging flowers of magenta and juicy blood-orange colours while palms drip a steady staccato from the rain. Walls peel and decay, the doors are ancient, the dogs bark, the gas man honks his horn to announce his arrival and the smell of roasting corn sneaks around the corners.

 

There is history and colour at every step.

I walk around each day, camera in hand, a smile pasted on my face and with my mind full of wonder…and every once in a while I dash under shelter as another surprise rainfall pummels the cobblestones. Today another woman and I crowded into a doorway, exchanging shy smiles and pointing at the fuerte lluvia. I only hope I was saying the right words…though language  didn’t really seem to matter.

I love surprises.

 

 

 

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2 Responses

  1. Katie Marti
    Katie Marti at |

    Love it! I just arrived in Mexico as well for a 3 month jaunt through Central America and was slightly annoyed at myself for not realizing it was the tail end of the rainy season. I could have planned my trip virtually anytime but came on a sort-of whim now… thankfully, it’s been pretty beautiful and, on the upside, we’ve had some spectacular thunder and lightning shows!!

    Reply

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