497 words
India - Birdland
The trilling, chirping, dipping notes swirl around my cozy tent/house - a messy mosaic of sound. I'm sure all 300 species of birds that have been spotted here are in full voice. I inhale the jungle air, watching the geometric shapes of gold, red and blue flowered fabric beginning to glow around me in the dawning light.
"Tea ma'am." Right on time, a young member of the Mising tribe has delivered a thermos of tea, sugar and steel pitcher of steaming milk outside of my tent door. They wait on my little bamboo table, next to the bamboo chairs, on my, yes, bamboo deck. I have died in the sweet sleep of the night to be resurrected into the heaven of the Eco-Camp at Nameri National Park on the northern edge of the state of Assam in North East India.
The morning sun glints on my tea service as I settle into the little bamboo chair. The camp manager, Mr. Ranesh Roy has arrived. He grips his cigarette, stabbing the air to better make his points and he most decidedly has many points to make. His British-Indian English is lilting and nearly non-stop. He barely contains his enthusiasm for this new project. "We are employing the local Mising tribal people, helping to build their economy. They are building the roads, re-thatching all the tent roofs, building my office, keeping all the trails litter free and even making the furniture."
I gaze across the green field, past the ash of last night's bon-fire, at the mirror image of my little home. The large tents are reminiscent of a MASH sitcom; large green Army tents except they are set on wood platforms and covered by a steep peaked thatched roof overhead. Single beds sit on bamboo bases on either side of the interior space. The back zip takes you into a little lean-to with a shelf unit and sink. Through the side tin door is the toilet and a gushing hot shower.
But the flourish, the topping on the cake…is pure Ranesh. The entire boring canvas inside has been covered by the vibrant colours of Rajasthan fabric; saturated intensity with bold designs that beg me to get in touch with my inner-Gypsy.
Nameri National Park is not only home to a bounty of birds but is a tiger reserve and internationally acclaimed for catch-and-release fishing. "Did you hear the rush of the Jia-Bhoroli River last night? It is the best sleeping medicine I know of." Ranesh looks momentarily stopped in the thought, but regains his enthusiasm quickly.
"Time for breakfast, ma'am." Eco-camp bills their food as "basic, simple wholesome food, suitable for all palates."
I disagree. It is fabulous - subtle curries, hot puffy pooris, fresh homemade yogurt, scented rice and hot coffee.
It is most assuredly a breakfast fit for a woman who is wakened by tea to her tent and is constantly referred to as ma'am.
When you go: Ask for Mr.Ranesh Roy at Nameri Eco-Camp www.incredibleindia.org |
