I’m not really sure when the idea first took hold.

Other couples might pledge to see the Seven Wonders, travel to every continent, walk the Camino or some other bucket-worthy objective.

For us?

We wanted to stay in every Canadian Fairmont hotel…because, well…luxury is kinda nice now and again, especially when steeped in so much Canadian railway history.

Formerly and collectively known as the CP Rail Hotels, these often chateau-like-hotels now operate under the Fairmont brand. According to their website, “…in October of 1999, Canadian Pacific Hotels & Resorts acquired Fairmont Hotels; bringing together two companies with over a century of rich history and exemplary hospitality. And from this grand union, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts, a new key player within the luxury hotel segment, was born.”

Mostly built in the late 1800s/early 1900s, these iconic destinations embody the notion of Smart Ladies; an era when travel included porters, brass-trimmed trunks, martinis and proper hats.

 

 

We had a great start when I wrote a long-ago article about traveling across Canada by rail for Opulence Magazine. As the name suggests, this was a high-end lifestyle magazine. It was based out of Calgary. Their ads were filled with glossy pages for Rolex and fancy cars. So luxurious in fact, that they never paid any of the freelance writers and the magazine eventually went under.

I am happy to report that I never stopped dogging the owner with phone messages, texts, emails until he finally paid me just to make me shut up. Unfortunately, because their magazine died, most of the other writers were stiffed and I never found out if my story ran before they folded.  While we were still in ‘negotiations’  they sent me the link to my piece and it looked lovely…you can check it out here.

But before all that happened we had an amazing train trip…

We started in Vancouver at the Hotel Vancouver, then a few nights at the Jasper Park Lodge, the MacDonald in Edmonton, the York in Toronto, Chateau Laurier in Ottawa, The Queen Elizabeth in Montreal and the Frontenac in Quebec City.

Since then, we have revisited some of those hotels, most recently the lovely Laurier in Ottawa, but it has been years since we’d last been to the Empress in Victoria. Recognized as one of the top 21 iconic hotels in the world by National Geographic Traveler, the Empress is a must-visit on the list of Fairmont hotels.

We set off for Victoria. We were going to celebrate Kevin’s birthday dinner in genuine Smart Lady style.

Last time we’d visited the Empress, she was still regal but looking a little tired. In 2014 the hotel began a renovation. They themed it the Return of the Queen, based on Queen Victoria, who back in those heady pre-Brexit colonizing days, had also been Empress of India.

 

 

 

Unlike some facelifts, the work done on the Empress is seamless and fitting. The Empress has retained her elegance and style but with a funky edge. But then again, you’d sincerely hope so, given that most facelifts don’t end up costing a cool 60 million dollars. 

 

 

The funky paintings of Queen Victoria in the Q Bar, the six-metre high custom chandelier with 250,000 crystals, the endless attention to detail is everywhere.

 

 

But we’re really here for the aforementioned Birthday Dinner.

The Chef de Cuisine at the Q at the Empress Restaurant is Ken Hookham. Inspired by the Pacific Northwest farmers, foragers, fishers and artisans, his reverence for the local food shows up in every dish.

 

 

 

As you can see with his dish of bison carpaccio (pictured above) served with roasted mushrooms and truffle oil, this is not the usually-boring and safe hotel dining experience.

This is the kind of food that is proud of being local and sustainably sourced, presented with pride and style.

 

 

Kevin’s dinner of Haida Gwaii halibut was served with bran fermented asparagus, spring peas, charred onion nage, and a bright green nasturtium oil.  My smoke-brined coho salmon came with confit fingerlings, braised rainbow radishes, resting in a lovely crème fraîche of sorrel and dill. In between we shared a crazy-good dish of pan-seared watercress gnocchi with morel mushrooms.

It all tasted as amazing as it sounds.

The dining room, full when we started, was almost entirely empty by the time we finally pushed our bellies back from the table.

But not before we slid in one last treat.

I believe I showed royal restraint by having a delicate little almond praline, salted caramel chocolate mousse with butter croissant ice cream. Sure I needed to discreetly adjust my waistband, but my dessert wasn’t anything compared to the birthday boy’s darkly decadent indulgence.

I am talking specifically about the fact that Kevin requested the chocolatey-treat that takes two days to make…the royal Empress cake.

As one does.

But then I suppose one should grant a birthday boy his wish. It seems only fitting when one is dining with the Queen.