According to the Moon Handbooks – Oaxaca, “The line of hilltops stretching west from Monte Alban to Atzompa is peppered with buried pyramids, ceremonial plazas, and ball courts.”
It sounded like a relatively easy expedition, so along with two of my fellow residents, Julie and Mary-Laura, we headed out. Acting as friend and guide was Ricardo, a local guy, who through a series of artists connections, had been deemed a ‘good guy’. Indeed he was.
It was hot.
You could tell it was hot because the dogs weren’t moving.
You could tell it was hot because the locals were using umbrellas to shade themselves from the sun. The very sun that we were walking closer and closer to as we climbed and sweated and climbed and sweated.
Mary-Laura declared herself finished when we stopped at a tiny shop selling water and packaged snacks. Ricardo asked if she could wait in the shade and the woman at the shop graciously agreed.
And then there were three.
We kept climbing.
Eventually we were far above the city of Oaxaca, trying to imagine what this world must have looked like circa 500 B.C. until around 750 A.D. It would have been filled with temples, gods, priests and families. How had they managed all these hilltop cities?
Historians estimate that within an eight-kilometre stretch between Atzompa, Mt. Alban and the El Gallo sites, the hilltop population would have been around 40,000 inhabitants.
No one has the answer as to why the cities eventually declined and were abandoned. By 1000 A.D., there was no one left. Theories of drought, disease or revolt abound.
I’m glad we walked to the top because I think I’ve solved the mystery…
I think the delivery-slaves must have finally decided it was easier to be killed than have to walk up that crazy mountain.
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Touring a sweltering India felt much the same way, though totally worth it! Well done. It’s hard to sympathize completely when I’m sitting here in Toronto wondering why my heat isn’t turning on. I didn’t realize you were in Mexico already – this must be an extended trip. Have fun.
Hey Carol. You’re right. Just like the whole India thing, every bit of sweaty climby was worth it.
Of course, it wouldn’t have been quite so bad if we’d done what all the locals did, which was DRIVE to the end of the mountain road, park in the lot and climb the last little bit. (note to self: read the best way to get there before heading out on a fool’s mission).
And yes, I’m in Mexico for close to five weeks; three at this writing residency and the last bit with Michele.