A couple of days ago, Kevin & I took a little holiday. Yes, I know. It sounds weirdly decadent to take a holiday while on a two-month sabbatical in France. But it is what it is.
We left our friends in charge of the watering of the garden, hopped in our little Renault rental and zoomed toward the coast. Zoomed being the operative word, as we held our own with the posted highway speeds of 130 km/h and still had people passing us like we were dawdling fools.
We hit the coast just past St. Tropez and drove the rest of the way with the Mediterranean in sight. I confess that I missed a bit of the coastline as I nodded and drooled in the passenger seat. But still, it was beautiful when I actually woke up.
And then…we arrived in Nice.
Six years ago, we celebrated my 46th birthday in Nice. We had been staying in Villefranche-sur-Mer and drove in for the evening. I knew that I’d loved the city but I could no longer remember exactly what it was about it that made me think that.
So this time I’m making some notes. Writing it down. Right here. Right now.
We’ve sussed out quite a few villages and cities in our time here in France and we’re pretty good at determining the ‘just-right-for-us-factors’ that include, but are not limited to, the following;
Cafes, restaurants, bookstores, public art, art galleries, shopping both high-end and low-end individual stores, interesting architecture, gardens, public spaces, good weather, and a general vibe that mixes productivity with leisure.
Nice hits the mark on all counts. Add in the huge beach scene with the Promenade des Anglais filled with cyclists, strolling pedestrians and an air of relaxation with the palm trees and restaurants, and life looks pretty good.
It’s kind of a Goldilocks thing; not too big, not to small…Nice is just right.
And then you have the incredible buildings with Belle-Epoque and Nouveau and Baroque-style stuffed beside 70s-era huge-patio apartments.
Imagine throwing South Beach Miami, Waikiki, Rome & Paris into a big (tres, tres grand!) Mix Master.
Voila! You have Nice.
Nice didn’t officially become part of France until 1860. Prior to that she (for surely Nice is of the feminine persuasion?) was part of the Italian dominion.
When we wandered into the streets of the old city, it felt like we’d been transported into a side street in Sicily with the overflowing fruit vendors, the butchers and the laundry hanging from the shuttered windows in the narrow alleys.
With a population of a million people, a slick-looking transit system and those breezy palm trees, Nice has moved up into one of my top choices for a visit to France.
Apparently I’m not alone. Nice is second only to Paris in the number of visitors each year.
Next time we come to France? First stop will be Nice…because Nice is really, really nice.
Don’t miss the http://www.porquerolles.com/accueil/accueil/, the only marine park in France, accessed from the beautiful little town of Heyres which gets sad shrift in the tour books but we found delightful.
Thanks for the hot tip, but alas Laurie, we are saying au revoir to our time here in Beauvoisin. That looks like a lovely place but it will have to wait for our next trip. We are leaving for the train to Paris in a 30 minutes, and then, Voila! we will be back in Vancouver. Next time because there has to be a next time.
Nice with its palm trees, narrow streets and yellowish buildings is the capital of the South. I can already smell the fragrant flowers, the whiff of charcoaled steak, the sea breeze, the warm mediterranean air … how lovely to stroll around in this part of the world.
I am glad you have had an enjoyable time in France. Perhaps before you leave it I would tell you that I am actually French although I have lived in England a few decades now. I remember last year when we had a meal at Trefanon with the lady Doctor you said to me that the only French seen in Vancouver was on a packet of cornflakes!
Catherine! No wonder you know so much about France…
You’ve described the smells perfectly. The hint of wood smoke and old stone, the warm air, ahh…I’m missing France already and we haven’t even left yet.
We leave tomorrow morning for Paris, have one night there and then the big flight back to Canada.
I don’t recall saying that about the cornflakes but it’s true. All our packaging in Canada is bilingual and whenever I read something here, I keep expecting to see the English version next to it. It would sure help!
Hope you have a visit to France in your near future 🙂