Walking in Wales – Offa’s Dyke Path

Wellies at the Ready

Is that a bustle in your hedgerow?

Don’t be alarmed now…it’s merely a rabbit or a sheep or a rambling cow or perhaps a farmer wearing his big old Wellies.

Room 2 - The Rectory, Llangattock Lingoed, Wales

Last night we landed in Llangattock Lingoed, where even the bustling hedges were silent.

I’m pretty sure there aren’t that many places where one can be completely without WiFi and cell service, but last night at our stay at 17th century B&B, The Rectory, and our later dinner at the nearby Hunter’s Moon Pub, we discovered a starry silence that allowed for no laptops…. then again, maybe the silence came about because The Rectory has only the graveyard between it and the parish church?

All I know is that we slept like the dead, but luckily, we got to stagger down the stairs in the morning (semi-alive, except for the knees) and tuck into another full breakfast. They are not kidding when they call these things ‘full’.

We have needed the breakfasts, as yesterday we hiked about 24 km,  and today, after a 19 km hike along Offa’s Dyke Path, we were picked up by the indomitable Anna from Drover Holidays and brought to our gorgeous B&B, The Start here in Hay-on-Wye.

The ‘path’ part of Offa’s Dyke Path is a tad deceiving. When I picture a path, I see a lovely little continuous trail. To be fair, this path is certainly continuous; albeit with multiple interruptions of stiles, fences, fields, and gardens.

What is so wonderful about this ‘path’ is that it crosses private property, cow pastures, hills filled with sheep, and windy  moors. I love this notion of cobbling together these dedicated areas so that everyone is guaranteed passage over private lands.

Offa's Dyke Path Straight Ahead

This also makes it a bit of a game as we try to match where we are in the corn field  to where we are supposed to be on the map. Many times, we simply have had to have faith that eventually we would see another little yellow arrow that assured us we were crossing the right meadow.

We’ve now made it through the third day, which included the long steady climb up Hatterall Ridge to the first summit of the Black Mountains.

Up on that panoramic ridge we were surrounded by windy fields of brilliant purple heather as far as you could see.

I couldn’t stop smiling.

And now I’m just praying that my knees will recover with another good sleep. It’s always good to have hope…

6 Responses

  1. Jack
    Jack at |

    stop having so much fun Colleen – we’re all envious of this wonderful experience

    Reply
  2. barb
    barb at |

    i too pray for your knees and that you shall make it to the end of your journey without permanent damage. you are truly inspiring!

    Reply
  3. Sharon Oddie Brown
    Sharon Oddie Brown at |

    Having both knees AND hope is even better! You continue to amaze me.

    Reply

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