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Walking Kington to Knighton on Offa’s Dyke Path


According to the Offa’s Dyke Path guide book (by Ernie & Kathy Kay & Mark Richards), “This stretch is, in our highly prejudiced eyes, the most enjoyable day’s walk of the whole Path…the route is hilly but not unduly steep, and the views are superb…”

All that they write is true. And, though it rained and blew all last night, this morning we set off with not a raindrop in sight. The clouds rolled and threatened and yet the rain remained at bay.

Nothing went wrong. We didn’t miss a single marker, I hung on to the camera, we had a stellar lunch made up from John at the Arrowbank Lodge and our joints were held in check with multiple doses of ibuprofen.

There was only one problem…we were walking in a constant hurricane.

The wind never stopped. It blew, it rattled, it puffed and it ravaged. We’d take a step and stagger like drunks as the wind blew our feet into new formations. We met a few other walkers and we all shared war stories of how we were being blown asunder, navigating our way on the top of the actual Offa’s Dyke earthwork, like sailors on a sinking, and severely listing, ship.

And yet, here we are; we made it.

We’re tucked into the absolutely gorgeous Milebrook House just outside of Knighton. I feel like I’ve landed at a rich uncle’s house, that is, if I’d ever had a rich uncle, I’m sure this is what his manor would have looked like.

We’ve eaten a decadent meal, drank a lovely Merlot and are tucked into a room with a view of sheep on a hill…making today’s drama already feel like an event that happened to someone else, to people in another land, in a time far, far from here.

And who knows what tomorrow may bring?

 

It Never Rains in Wales

Forget everything you’ve ever read about the wet Welsh world. We’ve been here now since the 2nd of March and it’s non-stop brilliant blue skies. Of course, one pays for that a little with the rather brisk wind, but I’d much rather pull out an extra layer and leave the umbrella in the room.

It’s the last day of the Travel Media of Canada conference. It’s been great and Wales Tourism has knocked themselves out to show us amazing hospitality.  Tonight’s the big gala dinner that will be held in the Grand Hall of the National Museum. We’ve been assured that it will be a bit warmer than our dinners at the two castles. Our large group was broken up and taken to separate castles, and though they were both rather chilly, it was definitely worth it for the opportunity to dine in the atmosphere of candlelit tables in a castle hall. There’s nothing like going over a moat before dinner to put you in the right frame of mind.

I haven’t seen as much of Cardiff as I would have liked as I’ve rather dutifully attended all the sessions here in the City Hall. What I’ve enjoyed is hanging out around Queen Street and watching all the hip and edgy shoppers in the large pedestrian boulevard.

Tomorrow is a whole new adventure as we start our post-conference trip to the Lake District.

Lake Country Spa, Wales

Lake in the Black Mountain area

Welsh Lake in Black Mountain

Wales is already fixing itself in my memory as the place with miles and miles of sheep, sheep and more sheep. All of them surrounded by hedgerows that go on forever and ever & punctuated by enormous oak trees.

We did a  bit of a hike today, but first we picked up Lara Bernays in front of the church in Myddfai. She’s got her bachelor’s of science in herbal medicine and explained how generations of the herbalist from Myddfai practised with the very specific flora and fauna found in the little micro-climate of this valley.

She hopped on our bus that took us to the Black Mountain area where we got off to hike up to Llyn y Fan Fach. She told us the legend of the lady of the lake while standing at its edge. Lara is a great storyteller and definitely knows her plants. It was fascinating to hear some of the background to so many plants that I know we have back in British Columbia. Made me want to rush home and brew up some stinging nettle tea and get the spring tonic going.

We’ve checked in to the Lake Country House & Spa in Llangamarch Wells. It’s classic. Old and beautiful furnishings, crackling fire in the main lodge, thick carpets, fat sofas, and trails that lead off to the village down by the river.

I’d love to come back here to do some of the week or two-week walks. There’s one called the Offa’s Dyke Path that looks like the one for us. Apparently there are B&B’s at least every 12 miles. That’s very nearly perfect. Show up with a small pack and a credit card. Pub in every town, woolly socks and rain jacket and off you’d be. All you’d have to do is dodge the sheep.

Mumbles and Worms In Wales

Sheep in Wales

Welsh Sheep

So. We are safely ensconced in our  home for tonight. The very unexpected ‘Patricks with Rooms’ in Mumbles, Wales. It’s a very traditional looking Welsh village along the seaside, including this place called Patricks. But, when we got up the top of the two flights of stairs we found this delightful garrett painted an indigo blue. White leather sofa, black sparkly bathroom floor, mirrored desk, all of it combining to be tres chic and hip but with a definite fun edge. We have an amazing view of the bay and across the bay, Swansea is all aglitter with night time lights.

Today was a walk out to Worm’s Head. Apparently named because ‘wurm’ was the ye olde word for Dragon. I think they should have stuck with Dragon’s Head. Sounds a tad less, well…wormy. It’s a dramatic sweep of beach and rock and gorse. Quite divine on a windswept sunny day like today.

Today included lunch at Oldwalls Leisure, a new resort property in the centre of the dramatic Gower Penisula.  Beaches, crumbling castles, long rambling trails combined with very chic cottages. There is nothing twee or country cutesy about these places. Instead, they have clean lines, hip furnishings and the lablog in appliances.

Our lunch at Oldwalls was a remarkable risotto with laver bread (aka seaweed), cockles and bacon. Excellent. Of course, I stuffed every morsel back and then realized it was a starter because out came the salt marsh lamb with a rosemary jus, french cut green beans and roasted potatoes. Let’s not talk about the famous Kate’s brownies served with Joe’s ice cream. Best not to go there, especially since we’re just getting ready to now go to dinner here at Patricks. Clearly, I should have brought bigger pants.

Unfortunately, I have ascertained one negative about Wales. Somebody needs to get them on to the coffee thing. It’s instant wherever you turn. In spite of Starbuck’s shot at the new instant with their Via line, I swear instant is so 70s. It’s over people. Let’s move on to the real thing.

But let’s end this on a happy note. A very happy belly note. We just ate at Patricks restaurant. I had mussels in a creamy pesto-type sauce that was to die for, followed by a wild mushroom tartlette with sides of carrots, snap-peas and a somewhat scalloped potatoey thing. All this washed about with lashings of white and then red wine. The chef sent over a little dessert taster that was a chocolate creme brule with a piece of honey comb and dollop of melting ice cream on the top. We all licked them clean. Everyone’s meal sounded fantastic.

All I can say is, if you ever go to Mumbles, stay and eat at Patricks. Ask for Room 6B and watch the lights on the bay.

Spa in Wales

 

Aging Trees

History in the Welsh Trees

Any time I can marry the word ‘spa’ with a travel destination I’m a happy woman. Which is why, I’m already enjoying this trip. We’re a little ways west of Cardiff in the Vale of Glamorgan Resort & Spa in Hensol Park, Wales. There are crumbly castle bits hanging from hills and dales, sheep and hedgerows and old gnarly oak trees. In short, it looks like every fairy tale illustration woodcut that you’ve ever seen.

It’s been around ten years since Kevin & I were here and though I understand we’ll barely recognize Cardiff with all that’s changed, it is the countryside that remains timeless and comforting  because of that very fact.

I signed up for the aromatherapy massage and though it was nice, I realized that what I would have preferred was a deep-tissue massage. However, I’m sure Mick Jagger was talking exactly about this situation when he thrust those lips out to sing, “You can’t always get what you want, but you just might find, you get what you need.” 

OK, maybe he wasn’t talking about this exact situation, but the upshot was, this rather soft and nice and apparently lymphatic draining massage was probably exactly what I needed. I am finally figuring out that I don’t always necessarily know what is best for me. Not always.

Sometimes the unexpected is exactly the right thing. All I know is that between the pre-massage sauna, the post-massage sauna and the post-massage-post-sauna-post-ginger-tea-bubble bath…I mostly got over the residual bits of jet lag. Altogether a rather clever policy to go from a long flight directly to a spa. Brilliant all round.

This place is set on 650 acres of golf courses, rolling wooded bits, castles being turned into condos and other gorgeous projects. The next plan is to convert a huge old ruined castle into a five-star destination spa. I have a strong hunch these people will do it well.

Did I mention that tonight’s dinner ended with a coconut creme brule served with a small snowball of pina colada ice cream?

Tomorrow we leave by 9 a.m. Evening destination? Mumbles. How can you not like that?